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From Muxía to Finisterre: the hardest and truest ending.
July 22: from km 0.000 in Muxía to Finisterre, largely running, with closure at the lighthouse.
On July 22 I set myself a clear mission: start from km 0.000 in Muxía and reach km 0.000 in Finisterre running. At 11:00 I really started. The idea was great, but the day was very hard: heat, heavy stretches, energy rising and falling, continuous rhythm changes between running and walking.
When I arrived in Finisterre I was cooked. I felt sick, I also vomited, and for hours I could hardly eat anything: only water, lots of water, and little else. After a shower and a bit of recovery I still decided to close the circle completely: I went to the lighthouse, another 3 km, for the passage at marker 0.000. It was the most exhausting part of the day, done practically like a zombie, but it was also the part I wanted the most.
Catherine and I stayed in touch all day, at distance: she followed my updates, I sent her videos and pieces of road. In the evening, when my body started responding again, I finally ate something properly and got back in balance.
At night, beyond tiredness, the mental side arrived too: return to Italy now near, the sensation that the Camino was about to close, and at the same time the desire not to lose the bonds born along the way. It was already clear that the journey did not end at the return flight: it was becoming a network of people to reconnect with over time.
Real thirst, empty legs, salt on skin, lighthouse wind, and that mix of nausea and happiness that comes only after pushing effort to the very end.
The most memorable endings are not the most comfortable ones: they are the ones where you arrive emptied out, but certain you lived the day exactly the way you wanted.
If reading this diary makes you feel the Camino might be calling you, but you still need to clarify a few things, start with the free guide.
Day notes