Rabanal: base change, donative tent setup, and dawn plan toward Cruz de Ferro.
July 6: arrival in Rabanal del Camino and settling day before the next climb.
July 6 was one of those days when logistics count almost as much as kilometers. Once in Rabanal, at first I had aimed for a more “classic” albergue, but then Francesco told me about a donative place with tents (Green Garden). I went to see it, liked it immediately, and in the end changed base.
It was a choice very aligned with my spirit: less standard comfort, more experience. There was that temporary base-camp feeling, simple but alive, perfect to prepare the next day well.
In that context, new acquaintances also formed: among them Lucia, a very nice Italian girl with whom Francesco immediately connected. During the day there were light, shared moments, between some yoga and good watermelon, typical of those stops where the Camino slows down and becomes pure sociality. Catherine, however, spent a good part of the time acting jealous of Lucia toward me, even though there was no reason. Precisely to avoid upsetting her, I preferred not to participate in group activities.
Meanwhile intersections with everyone kept going. Andrius had even kept a bed near his for me in the first lodging, a beautiful gesture, but I explained I had decided to move. Catherine and I had been in touch since the morning: the idea was to try crossing in Rabanal or along the road, even with different rhythms. With Giselle we updated positions: she was already ahead in Molinaseca and confirmed the stretch toward Cruz de Ferro was absolutely worth it. And it was exactly the same Cruz de Ferro Carla had told me about on June 12, when she explained the small-stone tradition to carry there. From there I fixed the final plan: very early alarm and departure at 4:30, with the goal of seeing sunrise at altitude.
The evening closed like this: few things, mind already on the next day, and the clear feeling that I was entering a different phase of the route, more mountain-like and more intense.
Cooler Rabanal air, backpack resting in front of the tent, phone full of coordination messages, and that positive tension of an early-dawn start.
Transition days are not pauses: they are the moment when you set the tone of the most important stages.
If reading this diary makes you feel the Camino might be calling you, but you still need to clarify a few things, start with the free guide.
Day notes