Media (11)
Night, long stride, and arrival in León.
July 1: very early departure and long progression to León.
I left when it was still full night, around 3:40-3:50, with the idea of maximizing cool weather. At 4:52, shortly after I started walking, I wanted to record a video just to capture the sound of the night: you could hardly see anything, but the crickets' sound told me I was in open countryside. It was relaxing, better than classical music. In Mansilla I stopped for a long break, then started again and reached León around 13:00, tired but very satisfied. At 10:32 I recorded another video because I was amazed by an ant trail: it was so heavily used that they had even moved small stones, leaving a clear mark of their passage.
The day was a continuous puzzle of alignments with others. Catherine and I wrote while I was already ahead: she was farther behind and would reach León only the next day. We updated each other on timing, energy, and accommodation, as often happens when rhythms diverge but the group thread stays alive.
With Giselle we chased each other for hours: at first it looked like we would cross on the road, then we decided to meet directly in town. Once we both arrived at Albergue Muralla, we gave ourselves time for shower and recovery and started organizing the evening.
In parallel I was also hearing from Francesco: he was in a very social phase of the Camino and kept updating me on his crossings and plans. There was that typical atmosphere where groups continuously change shape: you lose each other for half a day, then realign at dinner or in the next village.
In León the context changed suddenly: after days of meseta and small villages, I was in a full, noisy, lively city. I took a very comfortable albergue (small rooms, large showers, code access), perfect to recharge and stop 2-3 days.
In the evening, between sudden rain and shifting schedules, we still moved to meet for food and drinks. Nothing linear, but very Camino: plans changing, people joining at the last minute, and in the end you still meet.
That night we went out: I was with the new little group formed by Francesco, Laura, and Juan, and Ocean, Giselle, and another girl named Rossana joined us.
The strongest contrast was clear: darkness and silence at 4 in the morning, then heat, heavy feet, and finally León's urban confusion with evening rain on downtown stones.
When you leave before everyone else, you gain kilometers; when you arrive in a city, you recover relationships. On the Camino you need both.
If reading this diary makes you feel the Camino might be calling you, but you still need to clarify a few things, start with the free guide.
Day notes